Welcome to my roundup of Watches and Wonders 2026, where I’ll keep you updated on all the latest releases and highlights from the largest and most important watch event of the year.
With the eyes of every watch enthusiast and collector on the planet firmly on them, all of the biggest and best watch brands will be unveiling their latest creations at the Geneva-based watch show, with Rolex, Tudor, Grand Seiko, TAG Heuer, Zenith, all taking part. And that’s just to name a few!
The show is taking place over several days, during which all brands will host a series of events and presentations – I’ll be in attendance, getting hands-on with all of the latest releases.
I’ll be picking my very favourite new launches and keeping you updated along the way. Here are the best new watches at Watches and Wonders 2026 so far…
A. Lange & Söhne
Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”
Right off the bat, this is one of the most technically and visually ambitious watches shown at Geneva this year. The combination of a tourbillon, perpetual calendar and luminous moon-phase display in the iconic Lange 1 case is remarkable enough – but the glowing sapphire dial, which charges continuously under UV light and illuminates every single complication in the dark, elevates this into a class of its own.
Limited to just 50 pieces and housed in a 950 platinum case, the Lumen is not a watch for everyone, but for those it is for, nothing else at the show comes close.
Saxonia Annual Calendar
Where the Lumen dazzles, the Saxonia Annual Calendar is a little more subtle. Its 36mm case is almost modest by modern standards. Everything about it, from the filigreed azurage dials, to the redesigned pyramid-tipped baton appliques and the blue gold moon-phase disc with 428 stars demonstrates world-class watchmaking.
The new self-winding L207.1 movement brings greater everyday practicality without sacrificing any of the finishing standards you’d expect from Lange, and the choice between white gold with argenté dial or pink gold with grey dial means there are genuinely two distinct personalities on offer here.
Alpina
Startimer Pilot Automatic
The Alpina Startimer is back, and it has never looked bolder. A complete ground-up rethink of a collection that first launched in 2011, the 2026 Startimer arrives with a new, slimmer 40mm case. It’s bevelled and finished surprisingly well for a watch at this price point.
There are four models available — black vintage, black sport, khaki, and petrol blue — each with their own personality and strap combination.
The movement is a self-winding La Joux-Perret calibre with a 68-hour power reserve, and the case back features a hydraulic-stamped Art Deco aviation motif.
Audemars Piguet
Atelier des Établisseurs
Audemars Piguet’s most interesting announcement at Watches & Wonders wasn’t a new Royal Oak – it was the Atelier des Établisseurs, a project that revives the ancient établissage system of collaborative craft that gave birth to Swiss watchmaking in the first place.
Working with independent artisans across engraving, enamelling, lapidary work and skeletonisation, AP has produced three debut pieces – the stone-set Galets, the multifunctional Nomade, and the extraordinary Peacock automaton secret watch. Each is assembled by a single watchmaker.
Bremont
Bremont Supernova Chronograph
Bremont made history this year by becoming the first British watch brand headed to the Moon. A Supernova Chronograph will be permanently mounted to Astrolab’s FLIP rover, scheduled to land at the lunar south pole no earlier than summer 2026.
The watch itself, a 41mm, 904L steel integrated-bracelet chronograph with a space-inspired geometric dial, is bold and futuristic. The moon mission is a genuine engineering story, not just a marketing one, and I find that really exciting.
Bremont Supernova Tourbillon
A step up from the Supernova Chronograph is the Supernova Tourbillon. The skeletonised flying tourbillon, powered by a La Joux-Perret movement customised for Bremont, is really intricate: angular anthracite bridges inlaid with blue Super-LumiNova glow like something out of a spacecraft console.
At 10.72mm thin for a tourbillon, so should wear surprisingly well. This has to be the most impressive haute horlogerie piece Bremont has ever made.
Bremont Altitude Chronograph Pulsograph Valjoux 23
Looking for something rare? This Bremont Chrono is limited to just forty pieces. It uses a new old stock Valjoux 23 movement (the same calibre that once powered Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet chronographs), refurbished and finished by the acclaimed Chronode atelier.
It comes complete with a salmon-pink dial with a pulsometer scale, and is supplied on a chocolate brown nubuck strap.
Bulgari
Octo Finissimo 37mm
Small wristed folk have been begging for a smaller Octo Finissimo for years, and finally, Bulgari has listened. I have no doubt the new Octo Finissimo 37mm will be super popular. The new 2.35mm-thick BVF 100 caliber is an engineering marvel, and the watch sits effortlessly on the wrist at just 65 grams.
Cartier
Cartier Privé – Les Opus Triptych
For its tenth Opus, Cartier did something quietly brilliant: instead of introducing a new shape, it revisited three of its greatest hits. The Tank Normale, Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir, and Crash Squelette are united in platinum with burgundy accents.
The Crash Squelette is the real showstopper. Its hand-hammered bridges, each requiring nearly two hours of work, make it one of the most laboriously beautiful watches Cartier has ever produced. Limited to 150 pieces, it’s destined to be a grail.
Cartier Roadster
The Roadster is back. Originally launched in 2002, the revived collection keeps the motorsport DNA intact – the conical crown, the rivets, the speedometer dial, while refining everything that felt unfinished the first time around.
Available in steel, gold, and a two-tone combination, with two sizes and a QuickSwitch bracelet system. The dark blue PVD dial version on a rubber strap is the one to have, in my opinion.
Frédérique Constant
Classic Worldtimer Manufacture
The Frédérique Constant Classic Worldtimer has been one of independent watchmaking’s quiet success stories since 2012, and this comprehensive reinvention earns its “new chapter” billing. The headline is the new FC-719 manufacture movement, which nearly doubles the power reserve from 38 to 72 hours through a longer mainspring and revised alloy composition. It’s very impressive engineering, made all the more so by the fact that it fits into a case 2mm smaller than its predecessor, now a classical 40mm.
The worldtimer function itself remains elegantly simple, adjustable via a single crown with no correctors needed, and the decision to remove the date display sharpens legibility considerably.
Three dial executions are available, including a stunning gem-set limited edition of just 88 pieces — a nod to the Maison’s founding year of 1988.
Gerald Charles
Maestro GC Sport Tennis White
Gerald Charles has built a devoted following around its tennis-inspired sports watches (it was one of my highlights at Watches and Wonders last year), and the Maestro GC Sport Tennis White is the Wimbledon chapter. It features all of the discipline and elegance of Centre Court.
The case is Grade 5 titanium treated with Gerald Charles’ proprietary Darkblast process, now enhanced to be ten times more scratch resistant, creating a matte dark shell that throws the crisp white textured dial into sharp, sophisticated relief. The ergonomics are great — the left-hand screw-down crown prevents wrist irritation during play, while the proprietary ‘ErgonTeq’ engineering ensures the case sits flush and comfortable regardless of wrist size.
A white Velcro strap with easy-release system, 50 hours of power reserve from the in-house Swiss Manufacture 2.0 calibre, and 100-metre water resistance complete a package that is as practical as it is distinctive. Limited to 200 pieces.
Maestro 3.0 Chronograph Clay
Where the Tennis White is restrained and elegant, the Maestro 3.0 Chronograph Clay is rich and atmospheric. Drawing on the success of the sold-out GC Sport Clay edition, this new interpretation brings that distinctive terracotta-toned aesthetic. It’s achieved through a specially grained dial base with a clear polished coating that creates extraordinary three-dimensional depth.
The layout is clean and intuitive, with three counters naturally clustered at 6 o’clock in a way that suits the distinctive cushion-shaped Maestro case beautifully. Pyramidal pushers integrate seamlessly with the case lines, and the Swiss Manufacture 3.0 calibre delivers 50 hours of power reserve alongside the 5G shock resistance you’d want from a sports chronograph.
Paired with a brown Velcro strap with easy-release buckle, this is a very characterful piece.
Grand Seiko
‘Mystic Waterfall’ Spring Drive 44GS
If there is one watch at Watches and Wonders 2026 that commands you to stop and simply look, it is the Grand Seiko ‘Mystic Waterfall’. Limited to just 50 pieces globally, this Masterpiece Collection creation is carved from 950 platinum and hand-engraved by Takumi artisans using two traditional Japanese techniques — leutor engraving for the delicate, flowing case and dial patterns, and wa-bori for the crisp, framed lines surrounding the logos — all inspired by the cascading spray of the Tateshina Otaki waterfall near Shinshu.
Powering it is the manual-winding 9R02 Spring Drive calibre, accurate to plus or minus one second per day with an 84-hour power reserve. It’s finished with 14ct white gold hands, an 18ct yellow gold customisable caseback plate, and a Kyoto Leather strap crafted using centuries-old Japanese techniques.
‘Ice Forest at Dawn’ 18ct Gold Spring Drive UFA
There is something deeply meditative about the Grand Seiko ‘Ice Forest at Dawn’, a watch designed to capture the resilience of the larch forests of the Suwa region.
Housed in an 18ct yellow gold case, its dark, glittering dial evokes a night sky over a frost-covered landscape with extraordinary depth, while a see-through caseback reveals a movement finished with an appropriately frost-inspired texture.
The calibre is the 9RB2 UFA Spring Drive — one of the most accurate spring-driven movements in existence, accurate to plus or minus 20 seconds per year — making this as technically serious as it is beautiful. Limited to 80 pieces worldwide.
Cherry Blossom ‘Sakura-Wakaba’ 18ct Gold Hi-Beat
Inspired by one of Japan’s micro-seasons, Sakura-Wakaba, the fleeting moment when cherry blossoms and fresh green leaves appear simultaneously — the Grand Seiko ‘Sakura-Wakaba’ captures something that feels almost impossible to render in metal and glass.
Its light, silvery-green dial has the delicate texture of petals caught in warm spring sunshine, set within an 18ct yellow gold case.
The Heritage Collection piece runs on the Hi-Beat 9S85 calibre, beating at a high 36,000 vph for smooth sweep and impressive accuracy, with a 55-hour power reserve.
‘Ushio’ Diver Spring Drive UFA
Grand Seiko is making a serious play in the dive watch category with the ‘Ushio’ (Japanese for “tide”) collection, a pair of compact divers powered by the brand-new 9RB1 UFA Spring Drive calibre.
At 40mm and just under 13mm thick, these feel genuinely svelte for a dive watch rated to 300 metres. The high-intensity titanium case — Grand Seiko’s proprietary alloy, 30-percent lighter than steel and hard enough to accept a Zaratsu mirror polish — gives them a presence that far exceeds their weight.
The dial’s wave-like pattern, in either deep blue or verdant green, is designed to reflect the biodiverse Japanese seas. A newly developed micro-adjustable diving clasp with an extension link rounds out a package.
Hermès
H08 Squelette
The H08 Squelette proves just how great Hermès is at watch design. The bleu Zanzibar numerals and Super-LumiNova hands pop against the blackened titanium case, which is fun for a Maison better known for its equestrian restraint — and that contrast, between the raw mechanical interior and the burst of colour on the dial, works so well.
I’m a big fan of the blue version, but my favourite might be the grey version, with its tonal hour markers and three strap options ranging from sandy Dune to deep Bleu Abysse.
H. Moser & Cie.
Reebok Streamliner Pump
This might be one of the weirdest and most unexpected collabs I’ve ever seen – H. Moser & Cie. and Reebok. It should not work as well as it does.
H. Moser replaced the traditional crown with an anodised aluminium pusher (Reebok’s iconic Pump button) that winds the movement by hand, one press at a time. Each press delivers over an hour of power reserve.
The forged quartz fibre case is lightweight, matte, and unique in pattern on every single piece. It’s playful and technically serious at once, which is exactly the Moser brand promise.
Hublot
Big Bang Reloaded Ceramic
Hublot has unveiled the Big Bang Reloaded, a complete re-engineering of its iconic openworked chronograph. It is the most significant update to the Big Bang Unico since the movement was first introduced.
The brand’s full-colour ceramic is genuinely impressive from a materials standpoint — 300 Vickers harder than conventional ceramic, produced entirely in-house.
The blue, black and green versions here are deep and serious rather than flashy, and the matching fabric strap pulls the whole look together. A strong choice for those who want a bold, colourful watch.
Big Bang Impact One Million
When a chronograph simply isn’t enough, Hublot also launched the Impact One Million — a flying tourbillon set with 500 diamonds totalling 44.6 carats, arranged in a dynamic vortex around the complication. Hundreds of hours of hand-setting went into each piece. It is extraordinary, slightly absurd, and entirely consistent with Hublot’s philosophy of never doing things by half.
Big Bang Joyful Steel Purple
This might be one of the most joyful watches at the show, as the name suggests. A 33mm stainless steel case set with 36 hand-set amethysts, a shiny white dial and a purple rubber strap. The Big Bang Joyful range has quietly become one of Hublot’s most appealing propositions, and this new purple joins a strong lineup of colours.
IWC
Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive
If two space-themed watched from Bremont wasn’t enough, then how about this watch from IWC as well? The Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive is the first tool watch specifically designed and certified for human spaceflight, with a bezel and rocker switch that can be operated while wearing a spacesuit. The 24-hour GMT display is a clever nod to the realities of life in orbit, where astronauts see 16 sunrises a day, and the watch will be part of Vast’s mission to launch a commercial space station.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon À Stratosphère Calibre 178
If one watch defines what Watches and Wonders exists to celebrate, it is surely this. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon À Stratosphère (quite the mouthful) represents the culmination of 22 years of refinement since the first Gyrotourbillon debuted in 2004, and the result is arguably the most precise tourbillon wristwatch ever made.
Calibre 178’s triple-axis tourbillon — a tourbillon within a tourbillon within yet another tourbillon — sees its three titanium cages rotating along X, Y, and Z axes at different speeds to achieve 98-percent coverage of all possible positions, giving gravity almost no chance to influence the oscillator. The entire mechanism comprises 189 components and weighs just 0.783 grams.
That alone would be extraordinary, but Jaeger-LeCoultre has gone further still, decorating the calibre using 16 different finishing techniques — including guilloché, translucent blue enamel and 65 hours of hand-bevelling across 55 individual components. Housed in a 42mm platinum case and limited to just 20 pieces, this is watchmaking at its most extreme.
Master Control Chronometre
This may be a terrible take, but while I’ve always appreciated JLC for their watchmaking, there are few watches in the brand’s catalogue that I’d actually want to buy and wear – the new Master Control Chronometre that.
There are three models in this new collection, a Date, a Perpetual Calendar, and a Date Power Reserve, all sharing a beautifully integrated metal bracelet with dauphine-inspired links that tie the whole design together. Each watch is tested for altitude, shock, temperature, and position over three days, on top of standard COSC certification. JLC clearly felt their legendary 1000 Hours Control needed a proper update, and this is a credible successor.
The Perpetual Calendar is the standout for me. Its symmetrical sub-dial layout gives it real character, while the Calibre 868 won’t need manual adjustment until the year 2100. Oh, and the case is just 39mm in diameter and 9.2mm thick.
Laurent Ferrier
Sport Traveller
Laurent Ferrier made a compelling case at Watches & Wonders 2026 for what a serious sport-travel watch should look like. The Sport Traveller is built around a brand-new in-house calibre, the LF275.01 — a self-winding movement with a 950 platinum micro-rotor, 72 hours of power reserve, and finishing standards that feel liked overkill for an action-ready watch.
Its party trick is a dual time zone function operated by two pushers on the left of the case: one nudges the local hour hand forward, the other sends it back, all without interrupting the movement.
The 42mm grade 5 titanium case is water-resistant to 100m and impressively light on the wrist, while the slate grey dial — anthracite with an opaline finish — gives the watch a classic, yet also very modern, look.
Nomos Glashütte
Tangente Neomatik 38 Update
Nomos Glashütte arrives at Watches and Wonders with one of the understated releases of the fair: the Tangente neomatik 38 Update. Bringing its celebrated ring-date complication, which earned a GPHG award when first introduced in 2018, into a new, more wearable 38.5mm diameter.
The real headline, however, is the introduction of an 18ct gold case for the first time in this line, offered in two versions including a warm “doré” variant with matching gold hands and a Horween Shell Cordovan strap.
Inside is the in-house DUW 6101 calibre, featuring a bidirectional winding rotor and quick-change date mechanism, all visible through a sapphire caseback.
Norqain
Wild ONE Skeleton X-Lite Limited Edition
At just 45 grammes, this is one of the most technically ambitious watches unveiled at this year’s show. The new X-Lite carbon composite material is a genuine innovation, and the 65-hour skeletonised Norqain 4K Manufacture Calibre, with its mountain-peak bridges and rotor, is stunning to look at.
Limited to 200 pieces, this is the watch that firmly establishes Norqain as a serious player in high-performance horology.
Wild One Skeleton Chrono
A flyback chronograph with transparent floating discs in place of traditional subdial hands, the Wild One Skeleton Chrono is as technically impressive as it is dramatic.
The Norqain 8K Manufacture Calibre is a genuine in-house movement, the case construction is rugged without being clunky, and the red gold 75-piece special edition is genuinely spectacular. A proper sports watch for people who actually do sporty things.
Freedom Chrono Enjoy Life “Sprinkles”
Not every great watch has to be serious, and Norqain proves that here. The Sprinkles is the follow-up to last year’s runaway Ice Cream hit, and it captures the same fun that made that watch so beloved.
The weekly ice cream date complication is genuinely delightful, the Super-LumiNova dials glow beautifully, and the message — that life is short and meant to be enjoyed — is one the watch industry could do with hearing more often.
Oris
Star Edition
The most understated, huble watch the show? The Oris Star Edition revives the barrel-shaped 1966 original – Oris’s very first watch with an in-house lever escapement movement, in a package that is faithful almost to the point of time travel. The silvery dial, twin-baton indices, square-tipped hands, and period-correct plexi-crystal are all present.
Panerai
Luminor 31 Giorni PAM01631
A genuine horological landmark. Panerai’s Laboratorio di Idee spent seven years engineering a 31-day power reserve into a 44mm Goldtech case, achieving it through four series-mounted barrels holding 3.3 metres of mainspring. Wind it 128 times on the first of the month and forget about it until the next month.
The skeletonised P.2031/S movement is as much spectacle as mechanism, and the patent-pending Torque Limiter that keeps timekeeping consistent throughout the full month is elegant engineering. Limited to 200 pieces.
Luminor Destro PAM01732
The Destro is one of Panerai’s most historically loaded configurations, with the crown bridge on the left, designed so Navy divers could wear the watch on the right wrist while keeping the left hand free for mission instruments. The matte blue dial is stripped back and purposeful, with just hours and minutes.
Luminor Forged Titanium PAM01629
Panerai’s first-ever forged titanium watch is a proper collector’s piece. The process of bonding two grades of titanium under heat and pressure creates a flowing, wave-like surface texture on every case — meaning each of the 100 examples produced is visually distinct.
At 47mm but 40-percent lighter than steel, it wears better than its dimensions suggest. The anthracite sun-brushed dial and beige suede strap complete the understated but still very special package.
Patek Philippe
Celestial 6105G-001
This might be one of the most technically ambitious watches ever made. The sapphire dial shows the actual sky above Geneva, with star movements, moon phases, and even sunrise and sunset hands – all from a caliber that took five years to develop. At 47mm in white gold, it’s a statement piece, and I love the modern looking design.
Patek Philippe Cubitus 5840P-001
Patek is bringing a Grand Complication to the Cubitus and it just feels like this case shape was made for stuff like this. The skeletonised blue dial is stunning, and the square movement visible through it creates a mesmerizing layered effect.
Patek Philippe 7047G-001
Patek’s minute repeater gets a bold blue and orange colourway, and all I can say is – can we get more blue and orange watches please? I love this colour combination.
Golden Ellipse 5738G-001
The Ellipse is simple and incredibly elegant, and the olive green sunburst dial is a perfect match for the timeless, white gold elliptical case.
Piaget
Piaget Polo 79 Sodalite
The Polo 79 gets a stone dial, and I think it’s my favourite Polo 79 yet. The sodalite stone dial is a rich, deep blue, and works perfectly with the white gold case.
Piaget Sixtie
The Sixtie continues to be Piaget’s most charming recent revival with a stunning Blue quartz dial and 29mm rose gold case.
Rolex
Oyster Perpetual 36 (Jubilee motif dial)
This Oystersteel Oyster Perpetual 36 features one of the most technically demanding and attention-grabbing dials in Rolex‘s history – a multicoloured lacquer dial decorated with the Rolex name rendered in the Jubilee motif, using ten contrasting colours applied individually and in sequence.
The result is graphic, celebratory and thoroughly crazy. If the centenary Oyster Perpetual 41 (below) is the sentimental choice, this is the fun one.
Oyster Perpetual 41 (100 Years of The Oyster)
The centrepiece of Rolex’s 2026 collection is this yellow Rolesor Oyster Perpetual 41, produced to mark the 100th anniversary of the original Oyster. Its slate dial carries a ‘100 years’ inscription at 6 o’clock in place of the usual ‘Swiss Made’ text, its winding crown is engraved with the number 100, and Rolex’s signature green appears on the minute track and dial text.
The bracelet, unusually, is made entirely from Oystersteel – including the centre links typically reserved for yellow gold – creating a configuration that Rolex calls “unprecedented.” It is a restrained, meaningful tribute from a brand not given to sentimentality.
Day-Date 40 in Jubilee Gold
Rolex’s biggest material announcement of 2026 is Jubilee Gold – a new 18 ct alloy with a unique blend of yellow, warm grey and soft pink tones, conceived and produced entirely in the brand’s own workshops.
It makes its debut here, on a Day-Date 40 set with a green aventurine dial ringed by ten baguette-cut diamonds and fitted on a President bracelet. The calibre 3255 movement inside offers a 70-hour power reserve.
Cosmograph Daytona in Oystersteel and Platinum
The new Daytona is technically and aesthetically beautiful. Its white enamel dial is made using the grand feu firing technique on ceramic plates – an approach Rolex developed specially, since enamel is traditionally applied to metal. The anthracite Cerachrom bezel uses a new ceramic formula enriched with tungsten carbide for its distinctive metallic effect.
The case back is transparent, and the yellow gold oscillating weight is visible through it. The pairing of Oystersteel and platinum is a first for the model.
Yacht-Master II
Rolex has rebuilt its regatta chronograph from the ground up. The new-generation Yacht-Master II, available in Oystersteel or 18 ct yellow gold, features a completely redesigned countdown mechanism that ditches the Ring Command bezel system in favour of two side pushers shaped like sailing winches.
The countdown hands turn counterclockwise, a first for any Rolex, making elapsed time intuitive to read. The new calibre 4162 carries Rolex’s Chronergy escapement and offers a 72-hour power reserve.
Datejust 41 in White Rolesor
Rolex’s perennial bestseller gains a stunning new dial: an ombré in green lacquer, shifting from deep to lighter tones via concentric spraying of black lacquer over a green base. It is the first time an ombré dial in the Datejust catalogue has been produced entirely through lacquering since the technique returned in 2019.
Paired with a white Rolesor case, in Oystersteel and white gold, and an Oyster bracelet, this is an easy recommendation for anyone seeking a dressy daily watch.
Oyster Perpetual 28 and 34 in Precious Metal
Two smaller Oyster Perpetuals go all-precious-metal for 2026. The 28 comes in 18 ct yellow gold with a green stone lacquer dial, the 34 in 18 ct Everose gold with a blue stone lacquer dial.
Both carry a notable first for Rolex – hour markers at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock made from natural stone. You get heliotrope on the 28, and dumortierite on the 34. Each with an ogive-cut upper surface to reveal their natural colour without catching the light.
The satin-finished case and bracelet are also a first for all-precious-metal Oyster Perpetuals.
TAG Heuer
Monaco Chronograph
TAG Heuer‘s iconic Monaco has been redesigned from scratch for the first time in decades, and it is better in almost every way. The new 39mm grade 5 titanium case is lighter, sharper and more comfortable than its predecessor. The in-house Calibre TH20-11 brings an 80-hour power reserve and proper horological credibility.
Three dials are available, blue, green, and a two-tone rose gold, to give collectors genuine options.
Monaco Evergraph
This is the chronograph of the show. The Evergraph houses a revolutionary compliant chronograph mechanism that eliminates the levers and springs used in virtually every chronograph ever made, replacing them with flexible bistable components that never degrade in feel or precision.
It is COSC-certified, runs at 5Hz, offers 70 hours of power reserve, and looks extraordinary through its transparent dial. Five years in development – worth every one of them.
Tudor
Tudor Monarch
The Tudor Monarch might be the most surprising watch of the show. The name has genuine historical weight – it appeared in Tudor catalogues for decades – and now it’s reborn as a 39mm dress-sport watch with a finely faceted case and a warm papyrus-toned dial.
The mix of Roman and Arabic numerals gives it an idiosyncratic, old-world charm that stands apart from anything else in Tudor’s range. The movement, Calibre MT5662-2U, is unique to this watch, features traditional finishing including Côtes de Genève, perlage and an 18ct gold rotor inlay, and carries Master Chronometer certification. It is genuinely special – even though it’s not a Big Block Chronograph.
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic
Tudor is also pushing its technical boundaries further with the Black Bay Ceramic. First launched in 2021, the all-black diver now gains a newly engineered full ceramic bracelet – no small feat given how difficult the material is to work with. The 41mm case remains matt black and aggressively stealthy, powered by the MT5602-U with a 70-hour certified power reserve.
Tudor Royal
The Tudor Royal line gets a thorough refresh. Three new sizes – 30mm, 36mm and 40mm, now arrive with Manufacture Calibres for the first time. The bezel has been redesigned with sharper, more precisely cut notches, the bracelet end links have been updated to prevent abrasion, and a wide palette of dial colours makes this the most versatile Royal ever offered.
Tudor Black Bay 54
The 54 line arrived last year as the most historically faithful Black Bay ever made, inspired directly by Tudor’s reference 7922 from 1954. Now it gets the treatment it deserves: a deep sapphire blue dial and matching bezel in “Tudor blue”.
Tudor Black Bay 58
The biggest seller here will no doubt be the upgraded Black Bay 58. The fan-favourite diver has been comprehensively upgraded with Master Chronometer certification from METAS – the industry’s most rigorous standard. It’s also thinner than before at 11.7mm, gains a five-link bracelet option, and now runs on the MT5400-U calibre with a 65-hour power reserve. This is arguably the best Black Bay 58 ever made.
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
Joining it is an all-new Black Bay 58 GMT. This is the mid-size GMT Tudor enthusiasts have been waiting for. The 39mm case wears the classic Black Bay 58 proportions, while the burgundy and black bezel with gilt accents channels the glamour of 1950s air travel. Critically, it’s also Master Chronometer certified, powered by the MT5450-U with an integrated GMT function.
Ulysse Nardin
Super Freak
I could spend my entire time at the show staring at the Super Freak. It’s built to celebrate 25 years of the Freak and 180 years of Ulysse Nardin, it earns its anniversary status by doing something genuinely unprecedented: housing the world’s first automatic double tourbillon. All inside a 44mm white gold case.
Two titanium tourbillons spin in opposite directions on a 327-component minute bridge weighing 3.5 grams. A newly patented 4.8mm gimbal system, borrowed conceptually from marine navigation, transmits energy to a seconds display appearing in a Freak for the first time.
The transparent blue Nanosital hour disc lets you watch the entire mechanical spectacle beneath it. With 511 components, only 13 stationary, and 60 hours of assembly per watch, this is true modern haute horlogerie. Only 50 will ever exist.
Vacheron Constantin
Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points
Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points is a rare thing: a luxury sports watch with proper adventurous credentials.
Each of the four models: North (white), South (brown), East (blue) and West (green), is housed in a 41mm titanium case with an integrated bracelet, powered by the in-house Calibre 5110 DT/3 with dual time zone display, AM/PM and date, and finished to Geneva Hallmark standard throughout.
The dial is textured, the orange travel-time hand gives each version a sporty pop of colour, and the tool-watch aesthetic feels entirely earned. I desperately want to strap one on a climb the nearest mountain.
Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin
At the heart of the Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin is the all-new Calibre 2550, a 2.4mm-thick self-winding movement that achieves the seemingly impossible: an 80-hour power reserve from a micro-rotor-driven double barrel, all within a case measuring just 7.35mm.
The engineering here is genuinely remarkable, presented as a limited edition of 255 pieces in 950 platinum with a salmon lacquered dial that nods to the Maison’s 1940s heritage.
Historiques American 1921
Few watch designs have aged as gracefully as the American 1921, and Vacheron Constantin’s latest interpretations make a convincing case for why it remains one of the most distinctive wristwatches ever made. The cushion case, 45-degree offset dial and idiosyncratic crown placement, born of a brief roaring-twenties moment in 1919, still feel genuinely avant-garde over a century later.
The new versions, offered in 36.5mm and 40mm in 18K pink gold, introduce a grained silver dial with blue Arabic numerals and open-tipped blued gold hands. It’s finished with a gradient dark blue patinated calfskin strap.
Inside, the hand-wound Calibre 4400 AS, just 2.8mm thick, with a 65-hour power reserve, is rotated within the case to align with the dial’s unconventional geometry.
Zenith
Chronomaster Sport Skeleton
This is the watch enthusiasts have been waiting for. Zenith has finally opened up the Chronomaster Sport to reveal the El Primero movement in full — and the execution is superb. The smoked sapphire dial creates depth without obscuring legibility, and the new patented folding clasp is a genuine functional innovation. The green bezel version is particularly striking.
Chronomaster Sport Two-Tone
A limited edition of 50 pieces in steel and rose gold with a mother-of-pearl dial sounds like a recipe for division — but Zenith has pulled it off. The warm tones are restrained and the proportions are unchanged from the standard Sport.
G.F.J. Yellow Gold with Bloodstone Dial
The G.F.J. won a GPHG prize last year, and this new edition shows why the collection deserves continued attention. Bloodstone is an extraordinary dial material — ancient and visually rich. Paired with yellow gold and the re-engineered Calibre 135. Limited to 161 pieces, it will not be easy to find.
G.F.J. Tantalum
The rarest and most compelling watch Zenith showed this week. Tantalum is one of the most difficult metals to work with in watchmaking, and the blue-grey tone it produces is unlike anything in the standard palette of gold, steel, or platinum. The black onyx dial and baguette diamond indexes add luxury without being too showy. With only 20 pieces being made, very few people will ever own one.
Liked this? Still running with an Apple Watch? Ditch it for one of these traditional watches instead
