Taking care of your skin ought to be as straightforward as keeping your phone updated. Wash it, keep it moisturised, and protect it from the sun. Your face, that is. Not your iPhone. Start shopping for anti-ageing products, though, and you’ll soon find yourself comparing retinol percentages and wondering whether you should own a mask that lights up your face. We’ve all been there.
There are useful treatments hidden among all those bottles and gadgets, though. The trick is knowing which ones could help with the things that bother you, and how to use them without leaving your face sore. You can start with a few essentials and add a treatment if there’s something specific you want to address.
Here’s how to put together a routine, starting with the everyday essentials, and working up to the more ambitious purchases.
Sunscreen comes first
If you’re buying skincare to help with wrinkles, make sure sunscreen is on the list. UV exposure contributes to premature skin ageing, and your face gets exposed on the walk to work just as it does on holiday. Cloud cover doesn’t block all of it, either.
The NHS recommends at least SPF 30 and four-star UVA protection. SPF tells you about protection against UVB, so check for UVA protection separately. Some products use a UVA symbol inside a circle to show that they meet the EU standard.
Find one that feels comfortable enough to wear regularly. Apply it generously to exposed skin, including your ears, neck, and scalp if your hair is thinning. A moisturiser with suitable sun protection can save you a step, as long as you use enough of it.
Reapply about every two hours outdoors, and after swimming or sweating, following the label. Use shade and a hat as well, particularly when the sun is strongest.
Build up slowly with retinol
Retinol is worth a closer look if you want to soften fine lines or improve uneven tone and texture. It’s part of the retinoid family of vitamin A ingredients, which encourage skin-cell turnover and can help support collagen production.
You’ll also see retinal on the shelves, along with prescription treatments such as tretinoin. The similar names make shopping more confusing than it needs to be. Comparing the percentages on two bottles is only useful if you’re comparing the same ingredient – and even then, the rest of the formula matters.
The American Academy of Dermatology advises starting with a less intense formula and using it every other night, building up as your skin tolerates it. Follow the product’s instructions, use moisturiser, and keep up sun protection during the day. You’re trying to improve your skin, so redness and persistent flaking are reasons to ease off, not use more.
Get advice before starting if you have rosacea, eczema, or very sensitive skin. Retinoids shouldn’t be used during pregnancy, either.
Gentle skincare goes a long way
Before getting into serums, sort out washing and moisturising. A mild cleanser and lukewarm water will remove everyday dirt and oil without the enthusiastic scrubbing that can irritate your skin. In the evening, you’ll also want to wash off the day’s sunscreen.
Pat your face dry, then apply moisturiser while your skin is still slightly damp. It helps hold water in the skin, making dry lines less noticeable. That isn’t the same as removing wrinkles, but it can make a difference to how your face looks and feels.
Choose the texture to suit your skin. A rich cream can help if you’re dry, while a lighter lotion or gel may be more comfortable if heavier creams leave you greasy. CeraVe’s Moisturising Cream is one fragrance-free option for dry to very dry skin, with ceramides and hyaluronic acid. You don’t need a separate men’s version.
Shaving deserves a little care here, too. If you regularly end up with razor irritation, try a moisturising shaving cream and shave in the direction of hair growth. Adding more skincare to an already sore face won’t necessarily improve matters.
LED masks need commitment
For those of us who find a gadget more interesting than a pot of cream, LED masks are an enticing prospect. Red and near-infrared light are used to treat signs of skin ageing, with some studies reporting improvements in fine lines and texture. This is different from the UV light in a tanning bed.
The catch is that studies use different devices and treatment schedules. A promising result for one device doesn’t establish how well another will work. The AAD describes red light as a treatment to use with other skincare or procedures, rather than a replacement for them.
Before buying, look for evidence for the particular mask and check how often you’ll need to wear it. Regular use is part of the commitment, and results aren’t guaranteed.
Ask a dermatologist about suitability first, especially if medication or a skin condition makes you sensitive to light, or you have darker skin that may be prone to pigmentation changes. Follow the instructions on eye protection, too.
Vitamin C can help with uneven tone
Vitamin C is another ingredient with evidence behind it, particularly if dark spots and uneven tone are bothering you. The AAD recommends a vitamin C serum or cream as an option for these concerns. Apply it after washing your face in the morning, before sunscreen.
Introduce it on its own rather than starting several treatments together. That gives you a chance to see how your skin responds, and makes it easier to identify the culprit if something irritates it. The same goes for exfoliating acids – take it slowly, especially if you’re still getting used to a retinoid.
Give it time to work
For everyday use, the routine can stay short. In the morning, cleanse as needed, moisturise if your skin needs it, and apply sunscreen. In the evening, cleanse and moisturise, fitting in a retinoid according to its instructions and the frequency your skin can handle.
A moisturiser can make dry lines look better quite quickly. Most anti-ageing products need at least six weeks, though, and sometimes up to three months, according to the AAD. Take a photo in consistent lighting before you start so you’ve got something useful to compare against.
